Top 11 Roman Recommendations

I first visited Rome at the start of 2009 to celebrate my Mum’s birthday. I returned again at the end of that year on pilgrimage with friends from Washington DC. Both of these trips were wonderful and secured a fondness in my heart for both Italy in general, and for its historic capital in particular.

Map
One of my friends recently told me that he’s planning a trip to Rome next year, so I thought that now would be a good time to stop procrastinating, get over my writer’s block and finally record my top eleven recommendations for those visiting the Eternal City.

1. The Scavi Tour (Book Early!)
Every year, approximately 7 million people visit St. Peter’s Bascilica in the Vatican. A sizable portion of these visitors will also descend to the lower level, the crypt which contains the tombs of many Popes. However, many visitors do not realize that there is a further level beneath the crypt, where you will find the original necropolis. Here you discover the graves of Pagans and early Christians, decorated both with murals and with ancient graffiti. As the tour proceeds, you work your way through a series of passages and chambers until you finally enter a small room containing the bones of a certain Galilean fisherman, St. Peter.

I put this recommendation at the head of this list for two reasons. The first is that you really should book this tour as soon as you know the dates of your stay in Rome. The second reason this entry appears so high on the list is that it was probably the highlight of my second visit to Rome. After we had spent some time in that chamber standing before the Apostle’s bones, our priest began leading the pilgrims out towards the stairway which would ultimately ascend to the main altar of St. Peter’s. I was the last to leave that room, lingering a little while longer to spend a few precious moments alone with my patron saint, the Apostle to whom Jesus gave the care of His flock.

Scavi

2. Wednesday Audience with the Pope (Book Early!)
On Wednesdays, the Bishop of Rome gives an audience which lasts about an hour and a half. This is another itinerary item which should be booked as soon as possible to secure a place. Scripture says that the last will be first and the first will be last (Mark 10:31), but unfortunately that doesn’t refer to Papal Audiences, so I would suggest that you arrive at the Vatican as early as possible in order to get a good seat.

The event may take place outside, but in the colder months it is held in the nearby Paul VI Audience Hall.  After welcoming the different groups of pilgrims, the Pope gives a short exhortation in several languages, one of which is thankfully English! When I went to Rome with my mother, Pope Benedict (my favourite Pope) gave a reflection on Romans 12:1-2 (one of my favourite Bible passages). At the close of the Audience, the Pope gives a blessing, so it’s common to see people with armsful of rosaries to give to friends back home. Afterwards, the Pope meets and blesses newly-married couples, who come dressed in their wedding clothes, which is obviously extremely adorable.

3. Pray an Angelus with the Pope
When I first visited Rome, neither my mother nor I had done too much research. After checking into our hotel, we hopped on a bus and found our way to the Vatican and St. Peter’s Square just in time to see the Pope! He had just finished his short address and was leading the people in the Angelus, after which he gave his blessing. He does this everyday at midday.

Angelus

4. Eat, drink and be merry
Just in case you thought all these recommendations were going to be religious ones, relax! So, you’ve explored the Early Church, heard the preaching of St. Peter’s successor and also spent some time in prayer…it’s time to replenish those energy tanks!

The food is really wonderful in Rome. I would suggest that you stay away from anywhere too touristy as it won’t be as nice or as authentic. I nearly wept when friends returned from Rome and told me that they’d spent the final days of their vacation eating McDonalds! Even if you’re not that extreme, there’s always the temptation to “play it safe” and stick to what you know, but I’d encourage you to be a little brave.  If you’re not sure what to order, ask for the waiters’ recommendations and you’ll rarely be steered in the wrong direction.

My favourite post-dinner tradition was definitely findng a gelato shop. As I mentioned above, you’ll generally find the better ones further away from the tourist spots. When ordering, I’d recommend any of the berry flavours. Some shops will also dip your gelato in dark chocolate. When I visited Rome with my friends, the girls instituted a special group which they called “Sisters of the Divine Gelato”.  I was not allowed to join 🙁

Gelato

5. Visit the Colosseum
The building known as the Colosseum is certainly one of the most iconic buildings of Ancient Rome. Named after the colossal statue of Nero which used to stand nearby, the bloody sports which took place here drew massive crowds during the city’s Pagan years.

I’d suggest firing the imagination prior to visiting the Colosseum by watching Russell Crow’s movie “Gladiator”, and having the Hans Zimmer soundtrack playing on your iPod as you walk around the collosal structure.

Colloseo

6. Visit some churches!
This should go without saying, but Rome is filled to the brim with beautiful churches, so go visit some of them during your stay.

Which churches you will like will be very much dependent upon your own personal architectural tastes. Personally, I wasn’t that enamored with St. Peter’s (although it was a very different experience visiting early in the morning). I found the Jesuits’ “Gesu” church rather gauche. Instead, my favourites were St. John Lateran and the Pantheon, a coverted Pagan temple.

Surrounded by so much beautiful architecture, it’s very easy simply to be a tourist so, as you visit these churches, don’t forget to spend some time in prayer. You could even do something like a Seven Church walk, praying a different devotion at each one.

Lateran

7. Stretch your legs
One general tip for Rome is to walk when travelling between the sites. Thanks to the proliferation of monuments, waterways and recognizable builders, navigation is not too difficult. More importantly, Rome is a ancient city with beauty and history at every turn. So, rather than enduring the hot, heavily graffitied subway, enjoy the sunshine and the sites you encounter on the way to your next destination.

View

8. Find the best statue in Rome
This is one which you’re unlikely to find in any guide book. Needless to say, the city is filled with some of the most beautiful staturary you’ll ever see: the Pieta in St. Peter’s, the statues of the Apostles in St. John Lateran and the Angels along the bridge to Castel Sant’angelo, among many others.

However, as I wandered around Rome with my friends on my second visit, I walked slowly, bringing up the rear, my mind otherwise occupied. As we walked past the a Hospital (“Ospedale Santo Spirito”), I was arrested by the statue I saw by a doorway, my previous train of thought completely forgotten. The statue was that of a begger sitting on the ground with his hand outstretched, asking for alms. However, as I drew closer, I saw something which took my breath away – the beggar’s hand bore a nailmark of calvary, a reminder of Christ’s promise that we would find always Him in the face of the poor.statue_in_rome

9. Mass in the catacombs
One of the highlights of my second trip to Rome was visiting the St. Callixtus catacombs (after eating some amazing food at Cecilia Matella). However, initially, I was rather disappointed with our Catacomb visit. I found it to be too…safe…too…well-lit…too…clean…not a body in sight! Then again, I guess I’m rather macabre.

However, after our tour was completed, we were ushered into a separate part of the catacombs. We were led into a cramped chamber which contained a small stone table. After a few minutes waiting, talking in hushed voices, our priest entered fully vested and, by the light of two small oil lamps, he celebrated the Eucharist. It was like stepping back in time to those early years of the Church.

Catacombs

10. Get out of Rome
I often meet Americans who fly all the way to England…but then never leave London. Just in the same way that there is more to England than London, there is more to Italy than Rome. So, if you can, I would encourage you to get out of Rome, even if it’s just for a day. When I went with my friends, we caught an early train out of frenetic Rome and spent the day in the more leisurely-paced Florence, returning to Rome that evening.

Florence-Italy-10

11. People Watch
My final and most important suggestion is to invite you to find a nice café in a pretty piazza. Next, ask for a cappuccino (a drink I only ever order in Italy) or a nice glass of wine (I never drank a house wine I didn’t enjoy). Then, simply spend the afternoon people-watching, an activity unsurpassed in getting to know a city.

Cafe

So those were my suggestions for Rome! The only other piece of advice I’d give is not to overbook your trip. Pick a handful of things you’re really keen on seeing. As you walk around, beauty and adventure are sure to find you. You’re sure to return to your hotel at the end of each day happy and ready for bed.

Sleep

Obviously, there’s no way I could include all the things to see or do in Italy’s capital. What would be your favourite recommendations for those visiting Rome?

2 comments

  • Most archeologically interesting church: San Clemente near the Coliseum. Inside it you can descend beneath it to two earlier churches and two pre-Christian pagan sanctuaries.

    To see the Sistine Chapel WITHOUT THE CROWDS: arrive at the Vatican Museums about a half hour before opening, stand in line, and once you’re inside the museums make a beeline for the Sistine Chapel to visit it before stopping to see anything else.

    Best place for a Sunday Mass with full Gregorian chant: the Benedictine order’s Sant’Anselmo on the Aventine hill during the academic year when all the students are there.

  • Dear sir: Regarding item 4 — when one wants to join an order, it helps to know the correct name of said organization. Signed fondly, the Sisters of the *Perpetual* Gelato.

    P.S. And, unless memory deceives me, I thought we made you an honorary/third order member during a dinner in D.C… 😉

    This brought back a lot of great memories. 🙂 How many pictures of you sleeping were taken during that week, by the way?

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